Cinque Terra
On the train trip to C.T. from Ventimiglia we went through Genoa. It was raining very hard, an actual deluge!! As we approached the city we saw major flooding, with cars about two thirds submerged and people wading around thigh deep.
We had to change trains at Genoa - and all trains from there were delayed because of the flooding, but luckily not too much as the train tracks were largely unaffected - it was mostly a precautionary thing I think. As we waited on the platform, there were massive claps of thunder, each one followed immediately by a flash of lightning.
Quite a storm.
We met an Italian guy who was on his way back home to Avesso from Germany – he’d lived in NZ for a year and was very helpful with translations regarding what was going on.
We arrived in Riomaggiore just before 5 and went to the office for our rented room. The room was a bit up the road – and I do mean up! – the main street was quite steep and then about 30 steps to climb – but worth it for our room, which was not in a hotel, but not quite an apartment either as no kitchen/cooking space.
By the time all that was sorted it was a bit late to do much other than have a quick wander down to the port/beach – but it was quite wild and windy due to the storm, which was all over that part of Italy.
Waiting for a table at a restaurant we met a guy called Andrew Taylor from Wellington! Not only that, he used to work at P and O with Hamish’s (my sister’s husband’s) dad AND with someone Stephen used to work with as well – it really is a small world!!
The next day we discovered that several of the walking tracks between the coastal villages on the C.T. were closed due to mud and slips caused by the bad weather. We walked to the closest village Manorola, which took only about 15 mins and was very easy and pleasant – then we jumped on the train to the next village, Corniglia – and walked from there to Vernazza. I say walked, but it was more like a very steep uphill tramp – followed by an even steeper downhill. The track was quite muddy and a bit slippery in parts, but all part of the ‘fun’ haha. It took us about an hour and a half, which wasn’t too bad as that was the estimated time given on the track’s sign.
After that we jumped back on the C.T train, ending up at Monterosso, the last and probably the largest of the C.T villages and certainly the one with the most beachfront.
We decided to have a slightly easier day the following day – the weather was warm and sunny and we set off to walk up to the sanctuary at the top of Riomaggiore, about 50 mins uphill there, but stunning views – and much quicker coming down.
We rewarded ourselves with a train ride to Monterosso, lay on the beach and read; Stephen went for a swim and then we sat in a beachside bar and drank vino and birra.
I have to say that the C.T is absolutely full of tourists – heaps of Germans, Americans and Aussies, a few French and a few NZers. We hardly hear Italian spoken at all in Riomaggiore – but Monterosso, even tho it looks so beachy and touristy actually isn’t. There are lots of locals around, which is nice.
Anyway – I’m glad I’ve seen C.T, but not sure I’d go back.
Originally we’d thought of staying in la Spezia, so we went for a day trip to have a look, as it’s only an 8 min train ride from Riomaggiore. We loved it straight away – the people were so nice and friendly and helpful. We had a wander around the waterfront and ate gelato – my current favourite is one scoop of cherry and one of dark chocolate – mmmm! Stephen’s is Limone, also delicious, and swaps are necessary.
Off to Castiglione del Lago tomorrow.
Pisa
We had to change trains at Pisa, so it seemed only sensible to leave our bags at the left luggage depot and go for a walk to see the leaning tower, which was only about a half hour walk from the railway station.
We strolled through the city and over the bridge that spanned a rather mucky looking river, heading towards the tower. The closer we got the more we were hassled by guys trying to sell us watches. I’m all for initiative, but these guys really took things too far – I tried to be polite saying ‘no, no thanks – gratzie, no gratzie’ but in the end I had to use my sternest and strictest ‘mum’ voice and say ‘ Basta – NO – Basta!!’ (That’s enough – no – that’s enough’).
Anyway, the tower certainly leans at a very acute angle! We didn’t go up because the sign said the trip took 30 mins and we just didn’t have time – but went into the church and the Duomo for a look and then bought a few treasures at the surrounding stalls before rushing back to catch the train and continue our journey.
Castiglione del Lago
Castle on the lake - Friday
We arrived late after stopping in Pisa for a couple of hours as above. Dusk, cold, windy….not a bus or a taxi in sight. We had plotted a walking course from the station to the hotel just in case, via google maps. It didn’t look that far!!
However after a fairly grim 30 min walk and climb up to the Centro Storico we found our hotel – where they said ‘why didn’t you ring – we come to collect you’. Arrggghh. If only it said that on the Venere web-site.
Anyway – they said we could have a choice of 2 rooms, one in the hotel or one over the road and we must see both and choose. Roberto took us over the road, unlocked a gate, and we set off down a dark path. Another gate followed, then a short path to a beautiful apartment - complete with fridge, gas rings, fully equipped kitchenette, cute little dining table, outside table and chairs in courtyard……etc. Perfect. Then off we went back over the road to the hotel to check out the room there. A very nice hotel room, but a hotel room none the less. Of course we chose the lovely apartment – and are happily ensconsed!
Saturday - and sadly I have to say, a bit chilly and windy – just like home!! We tried to hire a car today, but there is only one rental place here and the guy has only one car he hires out – so we caught a train to Chiusi – only about 15 mins away, where there’s an Avis and a Hertz. BUT – on Saturdays these places close at 1pm and we were too late, but not that bothered as we just pottered about, came back and went to the lake. We’re told most places are closed on Sundays, but will try and find bikes or otherwise have a day of rest.
O – an amazing thing. When we got back from Chiusi I was a bit worn out and wanted to get a bus back to the hotel. We went to the café/bar where we’d had a drink while waiting for the train (they also sold the train tickets there) to ask if there was a bus. The guy said no, so we asked him if he would call a taxi for us, which he did, but there was no reply. Meanwhile, his teenage son had come in the bar and he says something to him in Italian…….then says to us, ‘no reply – the boy will take you’! Of course we protested - he insisted – and a couple of minutes later we were heading up the hill in an Italian ‘boy racer’ car, with Shrek and Bart Simpson figures blue tacked to the dash. He was such a sweet boy and we exchanged small talk in broken Italian and English –he absolutely refused the money I tried to give him for petrol, several times.
Sunday – yay – the wind has dropped, the sky is blue, the lake is tranquil and beautiful.
We couldn’t get bikes but didn’t care – we just had a very holidayish day.
First we visited the castle and walked along the walls, stunning views all the way – and a photo exhibition in one of the rooms by a local lad made good in New York.
I really liked his photos, which were of quite ordinary scenes, but manipulated to be very mysterious and moody. I must get his name.
Next was a bit of shopping, getting in supplies to cook dinner, which we did last night as well – bought veg at the local market and the delicious Umbrian pasta, Pesci –made of semolina – it takes 20 mins to cook, but is extra yummy.
After dropping off supplies we headed to the lake and had a leisurely stroll enjoying the atmosphere, the views and the weather. We stopped for a birra and vino – then found a nice spot on the grass, where Stephen read his book and I had a tiny snooze until a fly buzzing in my left nostril jolted me back to reality.
Tomorrow we head to Firenza (Florence). It will be strange to be back in a huge city.
We are finding on this trip that we are really enjoying the smaller places – the scenery is stunning and the people lovely. Still, it’s Florence!!! Looking forward to the Uffizi!!
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